As winter comes to an end here – unceremoniously and full of rain — so, perhaps, ends my long summer century of ice creams based on a mixture of condensed milk and whipped cream. Not that I’m denouncing that method by any means, it’s spectacular and pretty foolproof, even for this fool. But my eye has been turned by a quasi-custard semifreddo method where egg yolks are whipped with sugar over steam heat, it’s considerably more work, I grant you, but it’s a commitment I’m happy to make. Why? Because I like cooking! The prospect of a little vigorous whisking is in fact a joy, not something to be sidestepped or eliminated. Also, the resulting ice cream has a particular feathery, tender-shouldered lusciousness that evokes its store-bought relatives a little more closely; though store-bought ice cream fades and melts from view when you consider, instead, this Blueberry Sour Cream Ice Cream recipe.
Hungry and Frozen 