Month: November 2024

mint choc-chip ice cream

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a blue ice cream scoop and a spoon resting on a tin of mint choc chip ice cream

I am quite happy to admit when I am incorrect, not least because I have so few opportunities to do so — culinarily, at least! Outside the kitchen it’s a nonstop onslaught of realising and abegnation — but today I contritely retract my claim that mint chocolate tastes like toothpaste has fallen into my dessert. Now, supermarket mint choc-chip ice cream is still vile, with its dusty pellets of solidified cocoa-tinted vegetable oil surrounded by puffy, indiscriminately sweet frozen dairy. But when a beautiful woman tells me it’s her favourite flavour, what am I to do but promptly make several batches of it? And it turns out that my mint choc-chip ice cream isn’t just relatively more delicious than the supermarket stuff, or even than my dim expectations, it is in fact singularly sensational. Indeed, it makes my churlish toothpaste claim feel akin to those people who look at modern abstract art and say “my toddler could do that”.

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Broccoli coriander salad

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a white and pink plate of broccoli salad on a white tablecloth

Unlike the unfortunate sector of society with the OR6A2 gene that makes coriander taste like soap, my ancestors blessed me with a hearty hyper-tolerance for the herb, and I can happily consume buckets of it like a blithe drayhorse in a meadow. That being said, I didn’t come to this broccoli coriander salad on purpose — it was the happiest and most serendipitous of accidents based on that humble yet potent activity; the fridge-raid dinner. Put it this way, I expected this to (a) taste fine and (b) use up exactly what I had at hand and no more. I did not expect it to blow my hair back so thoroughly, and I’ve had it for or with dinner repeatedly ever since. So, now I’m sharing it with you.

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Salty pecan oat sables

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A stack of biscuits with a few sprigs of lavendar next to them

As much as I enjoy a culinary pun, I also enjoy a culinary trompe-l’œil, like my feta with chilli oil pine nuts which is doing its best to resemble both soft tofu with chili oil, and cream cheese with sweet chilli sauce — a delicious double bluff. In the case of these salty pecan oat sables, they’re endeavouring to appear as banausic and unremarkable as a biscuit can be, and yet below their drab surfaces lurk layers and layers of cunning flavour.

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kefte bi tahini [lamb meatballs and tahini sauce]

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A roasting tray of potatoes and lamb kefte

Meat-and-potatoes is a phrase I’ve come to think of tinged with not a little pejorative, whether applied to outlook or dinner — but one of the most effective ways to sidestep the lowering veil of culinary or generalised boredom is, of course, to see how other people are doing it better. In the case of this Palestinian recipe for kefte bi tahini, it’s both a glamorously dashing yet earthy pairing and an opportunity to celebrate and experience Palestine’s cuisine. This recipe comes from Yasmin Khan’s wonderful Zaitoun: Recipes from the Palestinian Kitchen, and it’s one I’ve cooked from before. I first found a similar recipe in The Palestinian Table, a compelling book by Reem Kassis that I’ve also cooked from before — the relative simplicity of Khan’s version turned my head, but its inclusion in both books only served to make me want to cook it more; clearly this is a recipe people love.

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