Peppermint espresso martini

several espresso martinis in front of a glass filled with mini candy canes

Discovery can feel like invention. When you encounter a combination of flavours so prepossessingly ravishing yet so utterly unknown to you that surely — with all your life experience and accumulated years — this must be the first of its existence? I’m not referring here to culinary colonisation and staking a flag in someone else’s heritage, I’m talking about tasting a peppermint espresso martini for the first time. What do you mean it’s extremely, publicly common? Entirely un-gatekept? There’s only so many hours in the day, but I’ve had plenty enough of them to hear about this!

I’ve quoted him before, but Pete Campbell of Mad Men really has earned his place as a patron saint of food writers when he said “turned out it already existed, but I arrived at it independently”. In the fullness of time — the week out of 38 years in which I’ve known of this flavour combination — the important thing is that I arrived at all.

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Tamarillo Sidecar

Two tamarillo cocktails, a tamarillo and a red fabric rose on a white tablecloth

Cooking is about formulas and working out which jigsaw pieces you can slot in and out of the whole to make something new; but so is drinking. And when you realise how many cocktails are based on liquor + sour + sweet: daiquiris, margaritas, cosmopolitans, mojitos, gimlets, and so on, then you can be emboldened, with the right proportions, to start tinkering. In this case, the tinkering was done for me — I was served a wonderful cocktail at Caretaker and wanted to recreate it at home — but — and this is the last time I’ll say the word ‘tinkering’ — I could not resist tinkering further. Actually, it was that other classic recipe formula: reverse-engineering a trebuchet to launch you as close as possible to your desired recipe using the ingredients you have already in your pantry, which is how I landed on this Tamarillo Sidecar cocktail. That is, if I’d had white rum, it might’ve been the original tamarillo daiquiri I was served at the cocktail bar but needs must, which is an absurd thing to say when cognac is involved but — they must!

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